Time and again, browsing any site that it is the menswear or even reading some printed on the subject, we can notice the use of two distinct terms: suit and custom. Most of the times who writes does not distinguish between the two, but it’s just a way not to further confuse the head of those who still are not familiar with the names given to the oxen, even I do it many times here in Channel Male to simplify, so it is good to clarify that there is a prime difference between the two.
The suit had its genesis in the reign of king Louis XIV, who in the middle of the SEVENTEENTH century was the first to promote men’s fashion, becoming common among the aristocrats, the pompous costume filled with ornaments created by their tailors and, by the way, nothing practical! But the important thing is that were already there the chaquetón, the vest and the pants in versions more far-fetched and in the same fabric, forming the embryo of the modern suit. Times after, the Fall of the Bastille would this dress in the symbol of the aristocracy, something that had no place in a world now dominated by the bourgeoisie that tried to delete the pants known as breeches, changing the characteristic cut of the piece. Slowly, the suit was winning the known ways for us, as the frock coat, now worn only at weddings and gala events, but that was already clothing a commonplace.With the Industrial Revolution the business man has left aside the coats embroidered with gold threads and adopted a costume much more austéro and practical in dark shades, passing an air of seriousness and professionalism, getting to the beginning of the twentieth century with a format very similar to the suit current.
But why then is there the term custom? Now, the formal attire full consisted of jacket, waistcoat and pants (for this is called a suit, the word refers to 3 elements) and all of them made in the same fabric, of course, but from the decade of the 40 was to accept what we know today as usual, which is nothing more than the suit without the vest, something very common currently, in fact more common than the complete set of the original.
With the passing of time, people started to generalize by using the expressions “suit with vest” and “suit without a vest”, which seems kind of strange, especially if you put within all of this context quoted above, but calling the suit jacket and pants custom is a good way to separate the wheat from the chaff and avoid gaffes.
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